Grooming Your Schnauzer
by Dan Kiedrowski

A WELL-GROOMED Miniature Schnauzer is a delight to the eye, and should be a point of pride to the owner. The breed loses much of its character and charm if the coat is not properly maintained.

The grooming instructions in this chapter are intended to educate the new owner in all facets of grooming and general coat management. The instructions may appear lengthy due to their detail, but once digested and experienced, you will want to know even more.

The first-time owner will probably be dealing with a three to four- months-old puppy, already with ears cropped and fully healed. If your puppy is uncropped, it is assumed that this is as you wish and the ears will remain natural.

The new puppy, purchased from a reliable and responsible breeder, will arrive with a multitude of instructions, hopefully even some on initial grooming. If you prove to be a worthy owner, that breeder may serve as mentor, providing a constant source for needed information and advice.

Purchased from a responsible breeder, your new puppy will have already had considerable experience, and will arrive in a neat and tidy condition. If it was agreed that yours is a "pet" puppy that will not be shown, chances are he will already be neatly clipped in a proper style, and maintenance thereafter will always involve electric clippers as your principal tool.
Trimming the Underbody Fringe

Comb the underbody fringe and then use the palm pad to box it out a bit. Using straight scissors, trim the hair at the tuck-up near the rear legs to about a half-inch in length. Trim toward the front legs, gently tapering your line, so that the hair is longer at the chest than at the tuck-up or loin. The chest hair should reach only to the elbow and should not appear to be overabundant.

Trimming the Tail

The tail and the area below the tail will need periodic trimming. This area should always be kept neat and close by either topping with a stripping knife or thinning scissors. The tail itself should be rounded at the end, not pointed, and the length of hair kept in balance as further growth occurs. Final Trimming- front and rear views

Maintaining the Show Coat

Bringing your Miniature Schnauzer into show coat is only the beginning. To keep a show coat going longer requires considerable time and effort. The hair will constantly grow, and continued adjustments are required. The head, cheeks, ears and front section, as well as under the tail will need to be stripped or clipped almost weekly. The shoulders will need occasional blending and thinning, using the stripping knife. After the dog has been in full coat for a month, begin weekly thinning of the neck and body by finger stripping longer hairs as they appear. Hair between the pads and inside the ears should be cleaned out at all times.

Before each and every grooming session, reassess your dog, both standing and moving. Become more and more aware of his virtues and faults, and always trim with these in mind. Each grooming session is a learning experience, and often a revelation, as you discover some new way of providing a better balanced and more finished product.

There are no shortcuts to good grooming. Experience is the best teacher. No, experience is the only teacher!
If there is to be a future in showing, be sure the puppy is not machine clipped early on, as this will make the required initial stripping process more difficult.

In either case, the grooming process should begin immediately. Proper training during puppyhood can mean the difference between an individual easily managed, leaving both hands for the grooming process, or one that leaves neither to do the job intended. Be kind, but firm. Keep the sessions brief in the beginning, and follow them with some reward, like a favorite tidbit or a brisk walk. There is much to be learned by you and the puppy during these first few months.

Tools and Equipment

Regardless of whether you intend to show or plan simply to maintain a well-groomed pet, certain basic tools and equipment are required. The advice of a mentor will prove invaluable in securing the best for the least. If this is not possible, another source may be a local grooming shop. The average pet store may not be equipped to handle your needs if you are planning to show you puppy. It may, however, be able to supply you with the address of , or catalogs from, wholesale pet supply houses. These are by far the best source for the sophisticated grooming gear needed. Another source may be at a local AKC sanctioned dog show, where suppliers and vendors have booths for direct sales. The selection may not be as complete, and the prices will surely be higher than those offered through wholesale catalogs. You will, however, be able to see firsthand the large assortment of grooming paraphernalia available.

Consider the grooming tools and equipment to be a lifetime investments and buy the best you can afford. A grooming table with a restraining arm, two combs, two brushes, two scissors, nail clippers, stripping knives and a hand and/or electric clipper are all required items.

The Grooming Table
Grooming tables are manufactured in a variety of styles, each suited to special needs. They are readily available through wholesale catalog suppliers as well as some national chain stores. Along with the required grooming arm or post, this may be your most costly investment. If you are planning to show your dog, you will certainly need this equipment for working both at home and at the shows.

If you wish to improvise, the simplest solution would be to secure a piece of one-half to three-quarter-inch-thick plywood, approximately 18 inches wide and 30 inches long. This can be topped with rubber matting, and a clamp-on post can be purchased or even improvised if you are handy with plumbing supplies.

Grooming Tools

Combs
You will need two metal combs. One is the combination comb, like the Greyhound, with both coarse and medium teeth. The points are sharp and go through leg and face hair without tearing them. The other comb should have fine metal teeth-from 10 to 15 teeth per inch. It may be with or without a handle. This comb will have duller points and is used on the body coat, principally for removing undercoat.

Brushes
Two brushes are needed, each having a particular purpose, while a third, called a palm pad, might be a welcomed addition. The most important for general use is a wooden or rubber-backed pin brush-Safari #442 is a favorite with Schnauzer fanciers. This brush is excellent for daily brushing, removing a minimum of undercoat. You will need a slicker brush for the undercoat as well as for brushing leg hair and face furnishings. This is a small rectangular brush, approximately 2" x 4", with bent metal bristles and an angled handle. It must be used with caution as it can easily remove more undercoat or furnishings than desired
Scissors

Two pairs are needed, one for straight trimming and the other for thinning. Straight-edged barber scissors, with at least three-inch blades, should be snub-nosed for safety. Thinning scissors come in two types-single or double serrated. I prefer the former, as it cuts half as much hair. However, the Skipper "double duck" is excellent, having three-inch blades with 30 teeth on each blade. Carbon steel scissors are recommended rather than stainless, as they work better on dog hair and retain their sharpness far longer.

Nail Clippers

Guillotine nail clippers are best suited to the task-the Resco® clippers being most popular. A small metal nail file will also prove useful, between clippings and to soften edges immediately after clipping.

Stripping Knives

At least two stripping knives will be needed. One should be a coarse or medium knife having 12 to 18 teeth, for body work. A fine stripper with 20 to 30 teeth is necessary for working on areas which must be kept particularly short, like the head, ears and chest. MacKnyfe®, McClellan®,and Pearson®, make excellent knives in fine, medium and coarse grades.

Clippers

Although there are several varieties of hand clippers available-the type the barber uses for trimming-you will eventually want to invest in electric clippers manufactured by Oster. Model A2 is the older design, while Model A5 is a more recent innovation. Both are excellent machines. The principal difference is in the A5's "snap-in" blade feature. If a pet trim is desired, this is a must. Even with show trims, it will come in handy in dealing with the throat, ears and belly. Most dogs after enjoying their show careers will eventually be maintained by clipping instead of stripping the body coat. Two or three blades will be needed... a #8 or # 10 will handle body work most easily, while a #15 is used for areas to be kept shorter.

Miscellaneous Supplies

As you become more involved in the grooming process, several items will prove useful-actually necessary if you intend to show. Grooming chalk or powder comes in a variety of types; the choice is best left to individual taste. Cornstarch from the pantry shelf will suffice until you are familiar with other products. Working chalk or powder into the coat during the stripping process makes the hair easier to grasp. Baby oil can be used on tender, overworked arm to avert burning or drying out.

The waterless-rinseless type of shampoos are best suited to cleaning the dog in part, rather than giving a full bath, which is seldom necessary.

Add a spray bottle to your paraphernalia. Filled with water, it can be used in a variety of ways. Cotton swab sticks also are useful, as are tweezers. Various hair products, such as cream conditioners, are also likely to be found in the tack boxes of most exhibitors.

The Miniature Schnauzer Coat

The Miniature Schnauzer has a double coat: the hard, wiry outer coat and the soft, dense undercoat. The recognized colors are salt and pepper, solid black and black and silver. The same basic grooming is used for all three colors.

The more popular salt and pepper color is distinctive and unique to the breed. Although the overall color is gray, it is produced as a result of "banded" hair. Banding occurs when an individual hair has one color at the root which changes to a lighter color, and to dark again at the tip. A properly banded salt and pepper coat can only be achieved by stripping or plucking the hair. This is also the only way harsh texture and correct color can be maintained. If the coat is cut or clipped, the main body coloring becomes an overall slate gray, varying in tone from light to dark, with the true salt and pepper color being lost.

The Clipping Process

If your Miniature Schnauzer is solely a pet, the easiest and most straighten forward approach to keeping him looking smart and neat is by electric clipping. The clipping pattern followed is exactly the same as the "One Strip" method illustrated in Diagram A and B. This can be accomplished by an experienced groomer in less than an hour. Although Diagram B shows the dog stripped (or clipped) to the skin, this is not absolutely necessary. Using a # 8 or # 10 blade, and holding the clipper blade flat against the coat, move the clipper lightly with the lay or grain of the hair. You will see that some length of hair is left, and your dog is neither naked nor shaggy. How much hair is left will depend on the lightness of your touch. Most groomers find it easier to clip completely to the skin so that t to three-month intervals are possible between complete grooming sessions.
 

When using the clippers, it is best to start at the base of the skull. Holding the clipper blade flat against the skin, move it smoothly with the lay of the hair, working toward the tail. Following the pattern in Diagram B, clip the entire body as shown. You may clip against the grain when doing the cheeks, ears and throat, or may choose to use the finer # 15 blade on these areas. Before attempting any trimming, be sure the parts to be worked on are freshly bathed, as scissors should never be used on dirty hair. This can be just the legs, chest and face furnishings, or an all-over affair. After a wet down with warm water, use a spray with nozzle attachment to squirt a mild shampoo on each area. Lather and rinse thoroughly. Blot dry with towel, but leave enough moisture in the hair for the initial comb-out. Mats are more easily removed when the legs and beard are wet. This is an excellent time to attend to the toenails, as they are softer and easier to cut or file.

Before any trimming is done, the parts should be blown or brushed dry. Leg hair should be brushed in an upward direction; beard, eyebrows and chest fringe, downward. The trimming of these parts is done the same as described in the show trim which follows.

The Stripping Process
The process of stripping, or pulling the hair out from the roots,may seem abhorrent to the uninformed. It is, however, quite natural to strip out the coat of a Miniature Schnauzer. If left to its normal cycle, the hair would eventually reach a length of two to four inches and die. Rather than shedding, the dead hair tends to linger halfheartedly. It does not break off, but eventually falls from the roots. The stripping process is only assisting the natural cycle, and can be relatively painless.

The finger method of stripping is best for beginners, as you learn the process. If the coat is blown (dead, and ready to be plucked), it will come out easily.
Grasp the strands of hair between thumb and index finger. Pull in the direction of the lay of the coat. Repeat the process until one or two square inches have been removed. Then take a coarse or medium stripping knife and attempt to repeat the procedure. Instead of gripping the hairs between thumb and bent forefinger, grasp them between your thumb and the knife. Hold the knife perpendicular to the dog and grasp the hair as close to the roots as possible, pulling in the direction of the lay of the coat. Use an arm and shoulder pulling movement, not a wrist action. If you flex your wrist, you will cut rather than pull the hairs with the knife. Compare the hairs being removed from the finger stripping and knife stripping. If you are plucking, the hair is of uneven length. If you are cutting, the hair will be even in length. Remember to work a small area at a time until all the outer coat has been removed.
(Hair is grasped between the stripper blade and the thumb when using a stripping knife.This drawing shows how the hair is to be grasped and pulled, using arm and shoulder action rather than twisting the wrist.)

Stripping is a tedious chore-partly manual labor and partly an art. The cliché "practice makes perfect" definitely applies. The length of time consumed in hand stripping depends on three factors: proper tools and equipment, the cooperation received from the dog, and your own skills.

There is only one correct grooming pattern for a Miniature Schnauzer, but there are two distinctly different ways to achieve it. Whether hand-stripping, which is necessary if you wish to show, or machine-clipping, the overall look will be the same-only coat texture and color will differ.
Basically there are two approaches to stripping. One involves dealing with the entire body in one or two sessions, as would be done in clipping the pet. The other requires stripping in "sections" over a period of weeks. Artful "sectioning" is one of the basic requirements in bringing the Miniature Schnauzer into "show" coat.

The "One Strip" Method

The "one strip" method is clearly shown in Diagram A and B. Essentially, all the areas which appear to be clean are removed within a week to ten days. A longer period will result in obvious strip lines and too much variation in coat length. No amount of skillful blending of the areas is very successful.
In handling the body section, begin at the base of the tail, but not the tail itself. Go up the back to the withers (base of neck), taking out the sides or rib section, but leaving the underbody fringe to be scissored later.

After completing the back and sides, strip the hindlegs to about an inch above the hocks. Never strip into the indentation of the hock joint.

At this point, the dog is half stripped, and if you are unable to complete the forward section at this time, it can be picked up in a few days. In completing the "one strip" method, you would continue to remove the forward section: neck, shoulders and head, as well as the tail.
In order to make these instructions as thorough as possible, time will now be given to some of the more professional methods used in preparing the body section for show purposes.

Stripping In Sections

Stripping in sections is the exhibitor's way of achieving the most desirable outline, based on variations of coat lengths. This process involves from eight to ten weeks, depending on the individual coat quality of your dog. No two dogs grow their coats at exactly the same rate, and it is not unusual for a dog to grow coat faster on one stripping that the next. Be sure that the period between sections does not exceed ten days, or the blending of the coat later will prove more difficult.

The following steps should be followed over a six-week period.

WEEK ONE

Remove all the body hair from behind the withers on the back and sides and on the hind-legs as described in the "One Strip" Method. Diagram C illustrates the completed process achieved in the first week.

WEEK TWO

Beginning at the base of the skull, strip out an inverted "V," starting out with a width of about one inch. Gradually widen the strip as you work down the back of the neck until you join the section of the back previously stripped. Diagram D shows the desired result.

WEEK THREE

Take out the remaining hair on the sides of the neck and shoulders, down to an inch above the elbows. See Diagram E and F. Be sure you do not strip or trim into the indentation at the elbow. This small area of hair just above the elbows is trimmed later in a process to be described.

WEEK FOUR

Study Diagram G and H before beginning the work on head and ears. Study both the profile and top of the head as it should look when stripping is completed. A medium or fine knife will do the job, although frequent use of thumb and forefinger will give the best result. Remove all the hair in this area, including the undercoat. Start stripping from the back of the skull forward. As you bring your work to where the eyebrows begin, take considerable care in forming this line. With thumb and forefinger, strip out the area between the eyes, but not as deeply as on the skull. Strip out the sides of the skull from the outer corner of the eyes to the outer corner of the ears, leaving the sides of the cheeks and under throat for later.

Strip or clipper the ears at this time, using scissors to finish off the edges. The beginner will find ear stripping difficult as the area is particularly sensitive. Use a fine knife for these more difficult to handle short hairs, and use clippers if you must.

Whether cropped or natural, the inner ear should look neat and clean. Removing the hair with clippers is easiest, but some hand work near the ear canal is required. This is a sensitive area and using only thumb and forefinger can be very time consuming. A pair of tweezers will help, and a fastidious groomer will quickly learn their function.

WEEK FIVE

At this point, the cheeks, throat and chest must be dealt with. The amount that is stripped, and that which is clipped is a matter of personal pride. These areas must be kept neat throughout the weeks of showing, as short, in fact, as the head. These areas will need constant maintenance during the show period, whether stripping or clipping. Be reminded that clipping will produce a softer texture, and a loss of the true salt and pepper color.

Using clippers, take out the hair under the throat. Before proceeding, comb the whiskers (beard) carefully forward and then grasp the beard and muzzle before bringing the clipping to within 1-1/2 inches of the corners of the mouth. When in doubt, remove less rather than more-chin whiskers take a long time to grow.

With stripping knife or clippers, remove the hair on the chest to the point of the shoulders, leaving a small inverted "V" shape as shown in Diagram H. Thinning scissors may be used to blend the joining-line between shoulders and chest and between neck and throat.

WEEK SIX

At this point the undercoat will begin to show prominently. This should all be completely removed over the next two or three weeks, using a fin stripping knife or comb, and following the same pattern used for the outer coat. This process can do some damage the the new growth of hard hair if not done correctly. You may wish to use a fine (flea) comb first in order to learn the skills involved. The knife or comb should be held at a 45 degree angle, and with slight pressure, working in the direction of the natural lay of the coat.

This weeding out process must be continued as the new coat grows, otherwise the in-growing coat will lift and separate quicker than it otherwise would.
Trimming Head, Beardand Eyebrows

The Miniature Schnauzer's head should give the appearance of being brick-shaped as illustrated in Diagram I. All trimming is done to achieve this took, aiming at length and flatness of skull, cleanness of cheeks, as well as a keen and alert expression.

There is a tendency to leave an overabundance of whiskers as in Diagram K, both in lengthandthickness. This detracts from the overall rectangular took which is desired. Diagram L shows a dished-out look, where too much hair has been removed from under the eyes.

Before proceeding, be sure the beard and eyebrows are freshly washed and chalked. Facing the dog, comb the beard forward and with barber scissors cut a straight line to the outer corner of the eye. Where the clipping of the cheeks and the cutting of the beard meet, blending should be done with thinning scissors. The area under the eyes and at the bridge of the nose should be carefully hand plucked should there be any "fuzzy" quality here. The darker mask, so desirable in the salt and peppers, should be carefully maintained. Finger-strip when it begins to look untidy.

Trimming the eyebrows takes, special skills, and the process should be studied firsthand before any attempt is made. A word of caution: take off less rather than more, and give yourself some time to look at your work. More can always be removed.

Facing the dog, comb the eyebrows forward,but slightly outward. Trim close at the outer comers of the eyes. The length of hair left on the inside will depend on several factors. If the foreface is short, a little less eyebrow will give the effect of more length. If the foreface is longer than the skull, leave the eyebrows slightly longer. Longer brows are often left to disguise light, round or large eyes, reducing the amount of eye seen. Follow the pattern illustrated in Diagram J for the basic technique.

Trimming Front Legs and Feet

The aim in grooming the front legs is to have them look solid, full and straight viewed from any angle. All Schnauzers are not blessed with heavy leg furnishings, therefore they should be kept as dense as possible. The texture of leg hair may vary from soft and silky to hard and brittle. But in each type, cleanliness and careful grooming will prevent loss of furnishings.

Dry clean and comb out the legs before beginning. Add chalk and back-comb the leg hair and then lightly comb downward with a palm pad. Before trimming, make sure the dog is standing in its natural show stance. An honest appraisal of the front will pay off here, as you will want to minimize any fault that is present. Avoid creating a fault that isn't there! Poor blending at the elbows can create a pinched-in front or an out-at-elbow effect. Study Diagram M before proceeding.

Standing directly over the dog and looking down on to the front legs, use straight scissors, pointing straight down. Trim in a circular manner all the way around each leg. This is called "posting," as the aim is to achieve a "straight-as-a-post" look.

The hair around the feet should be trimmed in a similar fashion, aiming at a round rather than pointed look. Lift each paw so that the pads are visible as shown in Diagram N. Remove mats or any excess hair between the toes. Be careful not to carry your trimming to the top of the toes. The hair on top of the feet should be left full so that it can be blended evenly with the lower leg hair.

If your dog is not blessed with full furnishings, you will want to do some trimming at the same time (or before) the first week of body stripping. Spa or brittle furnishings can be improved by limited stripping, using thumb and finger. Applying a light oil or lanolin preparation will help prevent brittle hair from breaking, and seems to encourage growth.

Trimming Hindquarters and Feet

The hind legs are prepared and trimmed in much the same manner as the front legs. Here again, be sure the dog is in his natural show stance, and assess his qualities and faults. Study Diagram O and see what technique may be used to create the best possible look.

Back-comb the furnishings and then comb downward with the palm pad: or comb. In trimming the hocks, begin in the same manner, standing over the! dog with the scissors pointing straight down. You want to achieve that "straight-as-a-post" look, and will trim the hocks in the same circular motion. The hair on the rear feet should be trimmed in the same manner, remembering that the rear feet are slightly smaller, and will be left a little fuller.

On the inside of the stifle, from the breech to the inside of the hock, trim any wispy hairs. On the outside of the stifle, trim along the natural contour: of the stifle to blend into the hock. Make sure the finished scissoring of the rear is in balance with what you have accomplished on the front legs.

The true test of your trimming occurs when you move your dog. What efforts you have made to minimize faults while in stance, may not be adequate on the trot. More work may be necessary, but extreme care should be taken. It takes some time to grow an inch of leg hair.
Trimming the Underbody Fringe

Comb the underbody fringe and then use the palm pad to box it out a bit. Using straight scissors, trim the hair at the tuck-up near the rear legs to about a half-inch in length. Trim toward the front legs, gently tapering your line, so that the hair is longer at the chest than at the tuck-up or loin. The chest hair should reach only to the elbow and should not appear to be overabundant.

Trimming the Underbody Fringe

Comb the underbody fringe and then use the palm pad to box it out a bit. Using straight scissors, trim the hair at the tuck-up near the rear legs to about a half-inch in length. Trim toward the front legs, gently tapering your line, so that the hair is longer at the chest than at the tuck-up or loin. The chest hair should reach only to the elbow and should not appear to be overabundant.

Trimming the Tail

The tail and the area below the tail will need periodic trimming. This area should always be kept neat and close by either topping with a stripping knife or thinning scissors. The tail itself should be rounded at the end, not pointed, and the length of hair kept in balance as further growth occurs.
Final Trimming- front and rear views


Maintaining the Show Coat
Bringing your Miniature Schnauzer into show coat is only the beginning. To keep a show coat going longer requires considerable time and effort. The hair will constantly grow, and continued adjustments are required. The head, cheeks, ears and front section, as well as under the tail will need to be stripped or clipped almost weekly. The shoulders will need occasional blending and thinning, using the stripping knife. After the dog has been in full coat for a month, begin weekly thinning of the neck and body by finger stripping longer hairs as they appear. Hair between the pads and inside the ears should be cleaned out at all times.

Before each and every grooming session, reassess your dog, both standing and moving. Become more and more aware of his virtues and faults, and always trim with these in mind. Each grooming session is a learning experience, and often a revelation, as you discover some new way of providing a better balanced and more finished product.

There are no shortcuts to good grooming. Experience is the best teacher. No, experience is the only teacher!

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Pearson Stripping Knives  Pearson зачистки ножи 
Teeth Comparison - Зубы сравнения
Blades                 Extra-Fine    Fine     Medium  Coarse
Teeth per Blade          36        26     18        14

Construction Material - строительный материал
- Blades for all of our strippers are made from oil hardening tool steel.
- Regular and Finishing stripper blades are 5/64" thick.
- Special stripper blades are 3/32" thick.
- Reinforced stripper blades are 5/64" thick with a 5/64" reinforcement.
- All stripper blades are hardened, tempered, ground, polished and pre-dulled before assembly.
Handles for our strippers are made of hardwood; Ash for Regular stripper, Maple for Finishing stripper, Walnut for Detail stripper, Oak or Ash for Reinforced stripper and Cocobolo or a similar hardwood for Special stripper. Each handle is hand-shaped and lacquered.
- Лезвия для всех наших стриптизерш изготавливаются из нефти стали инструментом упрочнения.
- Регулярные и финишными лопастями зачистки являются 5/64 "толщиной.
- Специальные ножи зачистки являются 3/32 "толщиной.
- Усиленные лопасти зачистки являются 5/64 "толщиной 5/64" подкрепление.
- Все стриптизерши лезвия закалены, закаленное, отшлифованы, отполированы и предварительно притупляется перед сборкой.
Ручки для наших стриптизерш изготавливаются из лиственных пород; Ash регулярных стриптизерша, Maple для отделки стриптизерша, грецких орехов Подробно стриптизерша, дуба или ясеня на усиленный зачистки и Кокоболо или аналогичный лиственных пород для специального съемника. Каждая ручка ручного форму и покрыты лаком.

Regular Stripper - Регулярные Stripper
Our original all purpose stripper. Comfortable to use, with it's contour handle. We recommend these strippers for all types of stripping. A good first choice for anyone just starting their stripping career.
Наша первоначальная цель все стриптизерши. Удобные в использовании, с его контур ручки. Мы рекомендуем эти стриптизерши для всех типов зачистки.Хороший первый выбор для тех, кто только начинает свою карьеру зачистки.
weight: 1.5 oz., blade length: 1.5", total length: 5.75"

Finishing Stripper - Отделочные Stripper
This straight handled stripper can be used for flat work (close trimmed areas), and general stripping. A very popular stripper. The extra-fine blade is useful for raking out undercoat. If you have a cat, consider using the extra-fine blade for raking out the shedding hair.
Это прямая обрабатываются стриптизерши могут быть использованы для плоских работы (близко отделан районах), а общее зачистки.Очень популярного стриптизера.Сверхтонкой лезвие полезен для обстрела из подшерстка. Если у вас есть кошка, рассмотреть возможность использования дополнительного тонкого лезвия для выгребая выпадающих волос.
weight: 1.5 oz., blade length: 2", total length: 6"

Reinforced Stripper - Усиленные Stripper
The blade for this stripper is partially doubled. A heavy duty stripper used for general stripping. It is preferred by many handlers
Лезвие для этой зачистки частично удвоено.Тяжелая обязанность зачистки используются для общего зачистки. Его предпочитают многие обработчики
weight: 2 oz., blade length: 1.5", total length: 5.75"

Special Stripper - Специальные
A straight handled stripper with brass ends and a heavier blade (3/32" thickness). This heavy duty knife is useful for all stripping. This is a beautiful tool for any groomer. If you like a heavy tool, this may be for you.
Прямо обрабатываются стриптизерша с латунным концов и тяжелые лезвия (3/32 "толщиной). Это тяжелый нож долга является полезным для всех зачистки. Это прекрасный инструмент для любого грумер. Если вы любите тяжелый инструмент, это может быть для вас .
weight: 3 oz., blade length: 2", total length: 6"

Detail Stripper - Детально
This stripper has the same blade shape as the Regular stripper except that the tooth portion of the blade is shorter. The handle is similar to the Reinforced stripper, although the blade is thinner and the handle extends up further on blade for support. It is only available with extra-fine teeth.
Это стриптизерша имеет ту же форму ножа, как регулярные зачистки исключением того, что зуб часть лезвия короче.Ручка похожа на усиленный стриптизершу, хотя лезвие тоньше и простирается до ручки дальше лезвие для поддержки. Он доступен только с очень мелкими зубами.
weight: 1 oz., blade length: 0.875", total length: 5"

Care for Pearson Strippers - Уход за Pearson стриптиз

Pearson Strippers are made from top quality tool steel. This steel is not stainless. The blades will naturally discolor with age, the amount depending on the conditions of their use and storage. The original high polish on the blades helps to delay discoloration. Discoloration will not affect the utility of the knives.
If high humidity, or moisture is a problem in your area, we suggest that the knife blades be wiped down with light oil (such as clipper blade oil) after use to maintain them. Of course, you will want to wipe this off before use.
Individual groomers have their own preference about blade sharpness. Our knives are pre-dulled and have a slight burr on the top of the teeth when new. Pre-dulling helps to keep the groomers from cutting the coat they are pulling. Cutting the dogs coat can also be caused from using a twisting motion with the wrist when pulling. Hair should be pulled in a straight motion in the direction that the coat is laying. Using block chalk on the coat will give a better grip on the hair you are pulling.
Some groomers, although not many, prefer a sharp blade to strip with. A sharp blade can yield satisfactory results if done carefully by an experienced groomer. The majority of groomers prefer a blade that is duller than our knives are when they are new. Some dulling will naturally occur when the knives have been used for a while. We try to strike a happy balance between these two preferences.
For individuals who want to keep their blades sharp, this is easily accomplished by using a piece of fine emery paper on the front bevel of the knife.We don't recommend a sharp blade because you may cut the dogs coat. Please be aware of this risk. Pulling the hair by the root is the object of stripping.

Pearson Клещи изготовлены из высококачественной стали инструментом качества. Эта сталь не стали. Лопасти естественно обесцветить с возрастом, количество в зависимости от условий их использования и хранения. Оригинальный полированная на лопатки помогает отсрочить цвета. Изменение цвета не влияет на полезность ножи.

Если высокая влажность воздуха, влаги или проблемы в вашем регионе, мы полагаем, что лезвия ножа можно протереть светлых нефтепродуктов (например, машинки для стрижки маслом лезвия) после использования их сохранить. Конечно, вы хотите, чтобы стереть эту опцию перед использованием.

Индивидуальные парикмахеров имеют свои собственные предпочтения о лезвие резкость. Наши ножи предварительно притупляется, а так же небольшие зазубрины на верхней части зубов, когда новые. Предварительно притупление помогает сохранить склонов от сокращения пальто они тянут. Резка собак пальто также может быть вызвана с помощью скручивания движение с запястья при натяжении. Волосы должны быть выведены в прямом движении в направлении, в котором слой кладки. Использование блока мелом на покрытие даст лучшее сцепление на волосы вы тянете.

Некоторые парикмахеров, хотя и не много, предпочитаю острое лезвие к полосе с.Острое лезвие может дать удовлетворительные результаты, если делать аккуратно опытный грумер.Большинство парикмахеров предпочитают лезвие, которое является скучнее, чем наши ножи, когда они новые. Некоторые притупление естественно возникают, когда ножи были использованы на некоторое время. Мы стараемся, чтобы ударить счастливый баланс между этими двумя предпочтениями.

  Для людей, которые хотят, чтобы их лезвия острые, это легко осуществляется с помощью кусок тонкой наждачной бумагой на передней скос ножом.

Мы не рекомендуем острое лезвие, потому что вы можете сократить собак пальто. Обратите внимание на этот риск. Потянув за волосы с корнем является объектом зачистки.

Спасибище! Огромное!